음식 2011. 10. 21. 05:09

Haejangguk

Haejangguk refers to all kinds of guk (soup) eaten as a hangover cure in Korean cuisine. It means "soup to chase a hangover" and also called sulguk (술국) in pure Korean. It usually consists of dried Napa cabbage, congealed ox blood (similar to blood pudding), and vegetables in a hearty beef broth.In the Nogeoldae, a manual for learning spoken Chinese published in the late Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), the term seongjutang (醒酒湯) appears. It means "soup to get sober" and is assumed to be the origin of haejangguk. According to the record, the soup consists of thinly sliced meat, noodles, scallions, and powder of cheoncho (천초, fruit skins of Zanthoxylum piperitum) in a broth. The composition is same as the basic recipe of a present day haejangguk.Although haejangguk is not mentioned in cookbooks written during the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1910), relevant contents can be seen in genre paintings and  documents of the late Joseon Dynasty. In Shin Yun-bok (b. 1758)'s painting titled Jumakdo (주막도 "Painting of the Tavern), a scene regarding haejangguk is well depicted. A group of hallyang (閑良 a kind of prodigal people with no job) gather to eat haejangguk, while a jumo, female owner of jumak (a tavern) ladles boiling soup out of a sot (cauldron).This dish seemed to be eaten not only by commoners. According to Haedong jukji (海東竹枝), poetry collection written by Choe Yeong-nyeon (崔永年 1856∼1935),haejangguk is referred to as hyojonggaeng (曉鍾羹), which literally means a "dawn bell soup". The book states that the area within the Gwangju Castle (Namhansanseong) is known for making the soup well. The ingredients for the soup are inner parts of Napa cabbage, and kongnamul (soybean sprouts), mushrooms, beef galbi (short ribs), sea cucumber, and abalone. They are mixed together with tojang (fermented bean paste) and are simmered thoroughly for a day.The cooked soup is then put into a hangari (an earthen crock) covered with a pad of cotton, and sent to Seoul at night. When the dawn bell rings the time, the soup is delivered to a house of jaesang (high ranking officials). The hangari is still warm and the soup is very good for relieving hangovers. The record suggests that hyojonggaeng is either the first delivery food to cure a hangover after a banquet held by jaesang was ended or was used as a brib.Ugeojiguk (우거지국) - made with ugeoji (우거지, dried leaves of Chinese cabbage)Kongnamulguk (콩나물국) - made with kongnamul (bean sprouts)Seonjiguk (선지국) - made with seonji (선지, coagulated ox blood)Jaecheopguk - made with jaecheop (Corbicula fluminea) and buchu (garlic chives)Gulgukbap - made with oyster and garlic chives. Woochon Restaurant 10 West 36th Street, New York, NY 10018-8003(212) 695-1342 ‎[mappress mapid="26"]

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